Moose Pass and Seward area

Ptarmigan Creek Forestry Campground
Site #15 - $14, n/s, Temp 12C, cloudy & windy

We spent the last 2 nights at Ptarmigan Creek Forestry Campground between Moose Pass & Seward. There are no hookups and we made good use of the furnace. This was about the coolest weather we've dealt with on this trip. It was 11-12C during the day, but the wind made it chilly coupled with the fact that the snow is pretty low on the mountains.  There is a dampness from the Gulf of Alaska / Bay. I made use of all my 'layers' !

After arriving on Tues, we did a drive tour of Seward. We watched them loading a coal freighter which takes about 1 week.

We also drove up to Exit Glacier with a paved 1.5 mile hiking path up to the glacier base. I was only able to go part way, but Ron made the trip to take some pics. Strange, but it was warm up there and all the people who had bundled up with toques, mits and heavy jackets were pealing down to shirt sleeves. (Back at camp we had to layer up again! Weird!)



On Wednesday we did the 6 hr. Glacier/Wildlife Marine Tour. We have become a little 'wildlife tour' shy because of our not so good experience in Denali with the minimal sightings! (and this trip was considerably more $$). Anyway, it was an awesome tour! We were not disappointed.







We had lots of great sightings - orcas, humpback whales, sea lions, sea otters, harbor seals, puffins and many many other birds. The glacier was spectacular.  There was lots of calving (glacier chunks breaking off and crashing in to the Bay -- if you are naive to that as I was!) All in all, it was a wonderful tour with lunch and cookies that were baked right on board as we travelled.







And now I guess you would say we are starting homeward. We are working our way SE again. Alhough we still have a few side trips planned. ie. a train trip to Skagway.

Tomorrow we hope to camp somewhere around Tolsona. Hopefully there will be some internet available. I wasn't lucky here!

Must go -- It's chili time (and it smells yummy!)

Mon - June 9 Soldatna, AK

We've had some great tour guides on our trip and Doug and Faye are right up there with the best. We really enjoyed our day trip to Homer and back.

We had quite a laugh to start our day when Doug needed to move his car from one repair shop to another. The shops weren't too far from each other, but it's a bit of a dilemma when it's along a very busy highway and the car won't start. So Faye gets behind the wheel and Doug, Ron & I proceed to push it along the sidewalk !! Too funny!! I'm sure we 'turned many a head' and the boys having coffee break outside the garage we were headed to also had quite a laugh when we 'pushed up'. "Did you just push that car down the sidewalk??" they said. (They did help up us get it up the drive and in to the shop!!

And then our day continued. (Once we got 'up to speed' that is. Doug, who was driving our truck, finally figured out the parking brake was still on!) We spent a lot of time getting in and out of the truck. There were a lot of stops and so much to see in such a short stretch.

The beautiful Norman Lowell art gallery - at the end of a winding country road, middle of nowhere;



The historical towns; the mountains including the active volcanic peaks of Redoubt and Iliamna (no smoke was seen today however); the rivers, the creeks, lakes & seashores, all the fishermen lined up on the shores plus more golden eagles in one day than I'd seen my lifetime.



Homer is certainly a hub of fishing/boating activity.  Halibut seemed to be the catch of the day. There are lots of neat little shops and we stopped for some yummy clam chowder.





The "Salty Dawg Saloon" was something to see. Dollar bills, bras & gotch and business cards (and who knows what else - there is too much to see!!) are covering every inch of wall and ceiling with peoples identification and other remarks. I've included pics, but it's one of those 'gotta see it to believe it' places!!!









We stopped in to meet some of Doug & Faye's fishing buddies. They have some great contacts if anyone is looking for a Fishing Charter in Alaska!!!



It was another fun day and we were all pretty exhausted when we finally got home around 7 p.m. And so, it was time for bed!! Doug & Faye will be up and fishing by 6:30 a.m. and we'll be moving on to our next stop, probably somewhere around Moose Pass.

Sun - June 8 Soldotna, AK

We just moved indoors. It was getting a little chilly at 8.5C. The sun is still shining bright in our window. If we can stay up late enough, we might get to see a sunset as we are in more of a "plains area along the Kenai River, with no mountains to obstruct.

It was a beautiful drive that follows an arm of the inlet, through State Park and National Forest with views of the Kenai Mountains.  Just wow --

Soldotna is definately all about the fishing! There are charter and guiding businesses galore. We are parked in a small private campground beside Doug & Faye who are right next to the river.



The campground will fill up with 'the regulars' in July, but only a couple of other units are here right now. We picked up a few things at Safeway and Ron decided to stop for a oil, lube and filter with all the miles that we've put on. We stopped at a 10 min Penzoil Oil Change. The guy drained the oil and then puttered around, had a smoke, took the mileage & filled out the bill etc. etc. He seemed to be wasting time. I kind of wondered what was going on. Then, a women (his wife probably?) drives up with 3 big jugs of oil and he finished the job. I couldn't believe it! He had to go BUY it first!! Ron paid cash. He didn't want to be giving out his credit card number to this guy! I said at least he didn't run yours out and then put it back in again! This is Alaska!!

We barbecued chicken and Doug & Faye joined us for supper. Tomorrow the four of us are driving to Homer for a day tour. We haven't quite mapped out our trip after that.

Anyway, it's time for bed. I am not going to see that sunset!

This will be our 'furthest west' point.. (Ron mistakenly told me Anchorage was!)

Sat - June 7 Anchorage, AK

Things haven't been so bad here. There were no trains or planes through the night and we actually got a good night sleep -- after doing my hour of laundry.

This morning we went downtown to the "Market Festival" held every weekend from May to Sept. More than 400 vendors set up and sell their products -- unique handmade arts, crafts and gifts, furs, jewellry, produce and a variety of foods. It was very enjoyable, although we didn't spend much.

We were home for lunch and then we rode our bikes along the inlet and watched the fisherman. EVERYWHERE! The Salmon Derby is taking place and the salmon have just been released from the nearby Hatchery. All the fisherman are hoping to catch that big one!





We stopped at the ULU (oo-loo) Factory and saw the Ulu knives and bowls being made and bought ourselves a set. The knives have been used for centuries by the Arctic Native people and have become popular on a lot of the cooking shows. You will have to 'google them' if you don't know what I'm talking about.

We chained our bikes and caught the free trolley ride to the downtown tourist centre where we caught a 1 hr. narrated trolley tour of the city (not free). It was all very enjoyable.

We had a great tour guide with lots of local stories and history. Deb, we did go to the Turnagain area - now "Earthquake Park" where the worst of the 1964 earthquake hit. The ground has sunk considerably there, but it is now a beautiful park rich and lush from the nitrogen that's left in the silt after such disasters. It was the most powerful quake recorded in N. America with only 9 casualties here in Anchorage. There would have been many more deaths, but it happened on Good Friday and schools/businesses etc. were empty at the time.

The airports and small planes are unbelievable here! So many people have their own private planes. Our guide is also a school teacher and she said many of her students have their pilots license before they get their driver's license. Where we see boats pulled up to docks on our waterways... here you see floatplanes. She claims 1/2 the small planes in N. America are in Alaska. We actually had to stop at a red light to allow a small plane to cross the road. The sign said "Yield to Aircraft"... pretty funny!

We had hoped to go to "Beluga Point" this eve and watch the tide come in and see the whales. However, it just started raining, so we might not get there. Ron is off on his bike checking the fishermen, but I expect he'll be pedalling home fast.

And so, it turned out to be not a bad stay after all. There is a lot going on with the cruise ships coming in, the market, salmon derby and the "Alaska Run for Women" race is taking place. It is a busy place and tourism is certainly a big part of the economy. (There are way too many souvenir shops!!)

That's about it from here. I have a few more pics to upload and tomorrow we will be heading to Soldotna - 140 miles south of here, on the Kenai River. We will visit with Charlie & Carolyn's friends - Doug & Faye (the retired cop from Drayton). They arrive in June for the summer months.

Fri - June 6 Anchorage, AK

We left Denali at our usual "on the road" time of 9:30 a.m. We continued to be treated to some great views of Mt. McKinley towering above the Alaska range in it's whitened splendour. We were reading that only 30-40% of the visitors have a clear viewing of it, so I guess we were privileged seeing it all 3 days that we were at the park.



It was pretty cool getting up this morning. We had closed the door separating our bedroom & bathroom from the rest of the 5th wheel and had our catalytic heater going to "take the chill off" in that upper area. When I walked in to the lower area I could see my breath (!!). It was only 6C (3C outside).

Anyway, we are in Anchorage now. It is too big and busy here for me! I'm kind of thinking 'when can we leave' and Ron registered us for 2 nights! We are in the worst and the most expensive campground we have been in ($45. less our 10% Good Sam discount). It's another one of those places that sounded too good to be true. You'd think we'd learn!

We ARE close to "Cook Inlet" which comes in off the Gulf of Alaska/Pacific Ocean; close to the downtown area and the cruise ship entries, (Quote: Best of Alaska RV Parks) BUT, we are in the middle of the rail yards & the industrial area, about 30 yds from the train track, and the train appears to blow his horn RIGHT BESIDE US!! I just hope they don't run all night!

We are also right in a flight path, AND I'm sure our neighbors will hear us fart! I asked Ron why ever he would have paid for 2 nights and he said "well you wanted to do laundry" Yeah right... like about 1 hr. will do it for laundry! Oh well, we will try to find a tour or something to pass the time tomorrow.

I am looking forward to getting down in to the Kenai Peninsula area (when we leave here) and away from big city noise! However, it is now time to make some supper!

Thurs June 5 - Denali Nat. Park

Riley Creek Campground
Site #41 - $20 (+20 park entry fee), n/s, Internet at Registration, Temp 13C

We arrived at Denali Nat. Park around lunch time yesterday, so we are just 'wrapping up' day 2 here.

We had quite a laugh yesterday on the way when, just out of Fairbanks, we passed a place called "Skinny Dick's Halfway Inn". That struck us pretty funny. Oh how I wished I would have had my camera ready, but I probably wouldn't have got a good pic with all the laughter tears in my eyes !!



Yesterday we got a 'feel for the place' with a driving tour. Public vehicles are only allowed 15 miles in to the park.  You must take a tour bus to go further in.

We did see a grizzly and her cub which was probably the highlight. She was quite a distance away, but I did manage to get a couple of pics.

However, Mt. McKinley is what people come to see here. At 20,320 ft., it is supposedly the tallest peak in North America. Ron & I refer to it as "ghost mountain", because it is completely white with snow cover and more often than not, hidden in cloud cover and not visible. We were so lucky to have had 2 days of clear spectacular views. I must admit we did find it rather awesome.



After supper we did a quick bike tour around the Campground. This morning, we caught the 9:30 a.m. shuttle bus tour in to the park. It ended up being a 7 hr drive (advertised as 6) and it made for a long day!

At the end of the trip, we finally saw a lone grizzly or we may have questioned the value of the tour. Oh yes, and we did see a moose with her baby just before we got off the bus, which was kind of cool. We were beginning to find the caribou herds, dally sheep and the snowshoe rabbits kind of boring up until that time!

Still we had another great view of the mountain which many won't see and it is a beautiful park. Tomorrow we will head to Anchorage.... (That's the furthest point west we will go in Alaska.... Fairbanks was the most northern spot.).

I continue to brag about the weather. We can't believe how lucky we have been. 14 & 15C here. (and feeling much warmer in the sunshine!) cheers!

There is unsecured wireless at the campground registration so I will upload tonight. Here are some pics of our 'resident' campground moose. We haven't seen him this evening yet tho!

Tues - June 3 Fairbanks, AK

River's Edge RV Park
Site #F17 - $29, p/w, Internet, Temp 22C & beautiful!

We are camped along the Cheena River in Fairbanks. There are a lot of river boats, jet boats, canoes, kayaks, dingy's etc. passing by. We had a busy day. We were up at 7:15 a.m. (that was tough!) so we could go on the city bus tour leaving our campsite at 8:30 a.m. There were only 6 of us so it was pretty personalised service. It was well worth the $27 price,

We got a good tour of the city - Pioneer Park , downtown area, out to the Alaska pipeline (built above ground because of perma-frost) and then on to the Fairbanks Univ. and the museum. Great tour guide.





We learned lots about the community and the history of Fairbanks. One fact that sticks out in my mind. When the Univ. opened in 1917, there were 6 professors and 6 students. For many years there was no charge to attend university (go figure!) And even today, this univ. has one of the lowest tuition rates.  Plus there are approximately 10 students to one prof! Interesting!

what he is 'spying' :)

We arrived home for lunch and then it was off to Fred Meyers for groceries, beer and fuel. It was a bit cheaper than our last 'fill up', but it's still pretty expensive here. One wonders what's in store for tourism. Everybody is complaining about the fuel prices.

And so, we conserved fuel and went for a bike ride. There is a great bike path here.

Tomorrow it's off to Denali National Park and hopefully some good wildlife viewing. Our weather bragging may be coming to an end however. It started clouding up tonight with a little rain.  More rain is forecasted for the next few days.

A final note. I read today that sunset was at 12:10 a.m. with sunrise at 3:28 a.m. Is that crazy or what!!!??? (We haven't seen it get dark yet here !!!)
And I still can't get used to going to bed in the day light!!

From Tok to the North Pole, AL

Tok River State Park
Site #16 - $15, n/s, Temp 17C

We unhooked and drove in to Tok after we were settled and set up. We are slowly learning that the descriptions given in the tourism books are greatly 'inflated'. What sounds like a 'you don't want to miss seeing it' often turns out to be pretty run down and sometimes even boarded up. And that was Tok!! Not much to see there!

It is now morning and we are leaving Tok. We are having to adjust to another time change. (We are 4 hrs. earlier than Ottawa now -- almost 1/2 day!), plus it is mileage versus kilometers and of course that 'funny money'.  We are not sure of the exchange rate yet as we haven't kept up!! We stopped at Chicken just over the border and they exchanged at par though.

We decided to wait til Fairbanks to 'stock up'. This portion of the Alaskan Hwy is looking good. We are driving 100 km. - oops 63 mph, I mean. The trees along the hwy and the snow capped mountains ahead are very pretty.  It's looking more like BC now.
(oops... I spoke a little soon on the highway condition. We came across numerous "Dips" which shakes things up in the 5th wheel pretty good!!) We saw quite a few moose along the road this stretch. I managed to get a pic of a mother and young one as they crossed the highway in front of us. 

Lunch was at the North Pole! How cool is that?! It was originally a homestead that was bought up by a Development Co. who called it "North Pole" hoping to attract a toy manufacturing company that would jump at the chance to produce toys here. That didn't happen, but it was incorporated in 1953 and developed in to a 'theme city".





There is a "Santa Claus House" on St. Nicholas Dr. and it's Christmas year round here.

Crossing to Alaska!

We are in now in Alaska. That was one tough drive from Dawson to Tok - on the "Top of the World" highway. Other that to say "we did it", I'm not sure there is to much more to be said. You are way up there, but the scenery is certainly not the best.  You are above the tree line, so there is pretty much just scrub brush and stunted, scruffy looking trees.

The highway was exactly as they said -- climbing, winding, narrow and some rough VERY DIRTY/DUSTY road. There was dust cover on everything. We averaged 50 km./hr - down to 20 & 30 at times. It was a long, tiring drive. There was a large 'burn area' just before Tok where over 100,000 acres burned in 1990.  Not much has filled in since. It is dry country and growth is slow.

We are stopping at Tok River state park just before Tok - no services, but we are REALLY looking forward to that beer & relaxation time!!!

And then, on to Fairbanks.

P.S. The 'crossing' went well. The fellow was even FRIENDLY, if you can imagine. He just asked what we had for food and when I said "no beef or fruit", told us beef is now allowed. He encouraged us to take pictures -  We loved the sign "Pop. 2" which was him & the Can. customs guy !!  I will upload pics when I get more internet time. This will be sent 'on the fly" through town!